The Starting point of restoration, remove all components and start the sand blasting process.
Because of the humidity, this took several days to complete.
After sand blasting, the frame was painted with a self-etching metal primer. This was sealed with a primer sealer prior to the final coat of chassis black.

One of the first items on the agenda was to find a 1928 engine since the engine in my car was a 1930. I have found the engine block and it is being shipped. Now, as I restore the frame, I am also looking for the 1928 engine components (carburetor, water pump etc.), but, the 1930 components will be restored and used until I find original replacements. The Finished Product Looks Great! I am sure it will run as well as it looks. The carburetor presented many problems. Rust had fused the secondary well and fuel adjusting needle housing to the lower body. I found another Zenith-1 carburetor that needed to be restored and will work on solutions for repairing the original carburetor.

The Transmission was checked for worn, pitted and cracked gears. All bearings were replaced.
Most of the U joint and Gear shift housing bolts were not correct and had to be replaced.
For the most part, I was lucky with this little project!.

The front springs on this car were weak and needed to be replaced. I installed a set of reproduction springs that fit nicely and are exactly like originals. For the rear springs, I followed the standard procedure for reconditioning. First I sand blasted the unit, using extra fine sand, while it was assembled. Next I disassembled the entire unit and cleaned the underside of each leaf spring. Prior to assembly, "Slip Plate" (a graphite lubricating spray sold at any John Deer dealer) was used on the under side of each leaf. Once assembled, I hand brushed the springs with chassis black paint. One coat will have the effect of the original finish.

Drive Train
After the bearings, races and grease seals were replaced, I was able to set bearing preload and backlash.
Notice the slotted drain and filler plugs used during a brief period in late 1928.
After final assembly, the rear axle housing was painted with two coats of chassis black to achieve that original factory look.


The steering presented no problems what so ever other than the enormous amount of time spent cleaning and preparing for final paint. The smooth feel of the steering column shaft and sector gear (7 tooth) assemblies will provide a better driving experience. Make sure that you save and reuse the brass shims located between the steering column housing and lower steering shaft bearing. Replace the steering bearings and upper and lower bushings and steering worm sector thrust washer if needed. Check the ball of the pitman arm for wear, replace or build up with weld and reshape if required.

The wheels, for the most part, were in good condition. Out of nine wheels, I managed to find five that were restorable. After sand blasting, I checked for cracks and loose spokes. Having only one wheel that required two of the spokes to be welded, I proceeded with the finish.

Disassembly of the starter motor in preparation for restoration.
The armature and bendix spring were in good shape and only needed to be cleaned.
The brushes needed to be replaced.